SailorMo's Sewing Tips

 

 

Get on the mailing lists of your local fabric and craft stores. You'll get info when and what's on sale. When you're on a budget, this is a real moneysaver. Plus, you can plan when to buy fabric for projects. Fabric availability is all about what's in style and in season, unfortunately, just like ready-to-wear. Plus, stores like Joann's have special coupons for "preferred" customers! ^_^

Sewing tools, known as notions, do go on sale (like 50% off!), but very infrequently. It's all in the tools, baby! :) Well, not totally, but the right tool can turn a time-consuming task into a snap. (Oh, the shears that have a spring handle are extremely gentle on the hands. No cramping up from cutting fabric!) Be forewarned that you will need to keep a supply of bobbins and machine needles. Bobbins tend to "disappear" with every new spool of thread. Machine needles will get dull, and when they do, they snag and do all sorts of weird things, like breaking. It's generally recommended to change the needle with each new garment.

 

Know your sewing machine. Sit down and actually go thru the manual to learn everything it can do. Knowing ahead of time that funky trick your machine can do can add that special touch to your costume. For instance, I used the rolling hem foot to finish off the edges of the back bows on the Super Moon costumes. Used my serger to get the lettuce-edging on the Serenity dress hems. (Okay, maybe it is all in the tools! ^.^)

 

Learn about fabric. This is primary to any costuming. The material you choose can make or break your costume. Do you want it to look "real" or like a costume? Different types of fabric behave differently. They hang differently. They sew differently and you have to make adjustments to your patterns and your machine. Peruse the fabric stores. Touch the fabrics. And you never know when you'll spot the fabric you need. I try to keep a list handy of what I need for future costumes, just in case.

 

Interfacing. Unfortunately, this is sometimes necessary. Want your collars to stay stiff or even stand up? Need some crispness in that one spot? The right interfacing changes the behavior of fabric. But choosing the right kind can be tricky. Sometimes this too, is trial and error.

 

Patterns. The easiest way to make any costume is to determine the basic garment shape, find a pattern that is the closest match, and make adjustments where needed. But be aware that all patterns are not created equally. Each company has it's own sizing system and it's based upon their own idea of what's "normal". You will need to make adjustments according to your shape. Plus all women's patterns are designed for the B cup figure. If you're bigger than a B cup, you'll need to make pattern adjustments in the bust. Sometimes, depending on the garment style, you can just go up a size. I find that fitting is the most difficult skill in sewing. There are books available on this too. With enough practice, you can make your own patterns! (Keep a supply of muslin!) In order to get the best fit and design, sometimes it's helpful to make a test garment out of cheaper, but similar fabric, before you make the real thing out of that very expensive, hard to find fabric that will work perfectly!

 

Organization. Also, getting your sewing area organized helps with efficiency-- everything really should be within arm's reach. Furniture arrangement is important. I'm constantly alternating between machine, table, and iron when sewing, so I have all "stations" placed to enable a smoother work flow. Bins keep all your supplies separated and accessible, like machine needles, spare bobbins, etc. Racks for thread, so you know what you've got!

 

 

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