IntroductionThese are the items you need in order to wear kimono correctly. They are listed out for the most part according to the general type of kimono and gender. I'm focusing on the actual Japanese items, but where possible, I will give you some ideas to get something comparable, whether buying a similar western item or making it. Buying genuine Japanese accessories can get really expensive. Unfortunately for my wallet I've had to buy everything because I had no idea of measurements or materials to figure out how to make them. However, there are a few things best to buy-- too much of a pain to make, and it may actually cost you more to do so. Japan Culture Club has a faq with pictures of what each item is here.
-- Underwear -- Undershirt [hadajuban] -- Half-slip [susoyoke] -- Socks [Tabi] -- Koshihimo -- Datejime -- Eri shin -- Body pads -- Obi ita -- Obi makura -- Obi age -- Obi jime -- Obi dome -- Geta -- Zori --
Under things
UnderwearNow why on earth would I bring THIS up? Well, this is more important for the gals. Basically, you're looking to get a cylindrical shape when wearing kimono. This is the Japanese ideal. No curves! So, unless you're an A-cup, you need to flatten your bust. There are special kimono bras that pad you out a little and flatten, but practically speaking, a good o'l sportsbra will be fine. Just find one that's comfortable. Besides, having your bust hang over the obi looks really bad. The obi is not a corset. As for panties, no lines! Heh, panty lines are a no-no here too, so this part shouldn't be a big deal. The bikini type is best, because it wears low on the hips. Makes it easier to use the toilet. Just lifting up the kimono any which way will spoil the wrapping, and thus your appearance. By the way, the way to do it is to lift the entire hem straight up against itself, like you were to turn down your bed covers.The guys have it easy. Again, no "panty lines", so go with boxers. The Japanese version of men's "bottoms" looks more like a snug, knee-length long-john.
Undergarments [Juban]
These are worn by both men and women, with ALL kimono. Now, no one should be seeing these either, but they're important-- not only for wearing comfort, but to protect the outer kimono from perspiration and body oil. I strongly suggest undergarments made of cotton or silk. These fabrics breathe. Nylon is a no-no!! In humid weather it will stick to your skin and make you feel hotter! Other than that, traditionally they are white.Women's: This is a short-sleeved, hip length, wrap around shirt, but without the collar, and the sleeves are open at the underarm. However, these are ridiculously priced and I've only seen them made of polyester. <yuck> A more practical alternative is a simple lightweight v-neck (or scoop neck) cotton t-shirt. The neckline has to be low or it will show. And the back needs to somewhat low because the back of the kimono collar is dipped to show the nape of the neck.Men's: Easier for you-- a lightweight, cotton v-neck t-shirt. The Japanese version is more of a scoop t-shirt. So either. Men don't dip the back of the kimono collar, so you don't have to worry about necklines too much-- just no crewneck t-shirts-- that will show.
Half-slip [Susoyoke]Okay, this is only worn by women... so guys, move along! The Japanese version is a wrap-around. (Like everything else..) I've got one in cotton, but I've seen them made of polyester too. <again, yuck> This one can be made fairly easily-- the pattern is ridiculously simple. The one I have is marked as a medium and its overall finished measurements are: 52" wide, 34.5" long; the 2 ties: 0.75" wide, 30" long each. All seams are flat-felled. It kinda looks like this, but with ties at the top corners:
The ties are sewn in the side hems like this: Fold the raw edge about 1/4". Fold again. At this fold, stick the end of the tie in the fold and sew the hem. The tie will lay on the slip. Fold the tie out away from the slip and sew that to the hem. To wear, wrap around like the kimono, left over right. Take the ties, cross in the back, bring them back toward the front, tie like a bow, but with one loop.
It probably looks like this due to the narrower fabric used in Japan for kimono. I don't see why you can't make this in one piece with the wider fabric available. Just use good fabric!
For both men and women they are the same. Women always wear white tabi. Men can wear colored tabi, but wear white for more formal occasions.This is definitely one of the things I suggest you buy, despite the expense. Folkwear does have a pattern for them, and the book, How to Make Your Own Japanese Clothes also has a pattern. I've tried both-- they're a real pain in the butt. I don't know how the Japanese makers can get the gathering around the toes so damn neat and even. Your feet ARE going to get noticed, so I would suggest to go authentic. They're durable, so, aside from keeping them pristine white, they should last a long time.
Oh, just as a side note, tabi are NOT worn with the cotton summer kimono [yukata]. No underkimono, no tabi.
Under Sashes
KoshihimoThese are lightweight, thin sashes used to help tie the kimono. You can buy them, but they're easy to make. Use a really lightweight woven fabric, like a gauzy cotton. It's basically a flat tube, 1.75" wide and 84.5" long. The ends are sewn, and the corners are folded into the tube to form a point. Or, I've heard of using pantyhose!There are 2 kinds of these for women. One kind is a single layer, woven silk sash with a stiffer weave in the center. It's striped, either with pastel colors or bright colors. The other is a tube, made of a lightweight cotton, with a stiff lining in the center. I have a couple of this kind-- they're both pastel colored with a darker hemp leaf design.Both kinds can be made to a degree, but the tube kind might be easier. The single layer type is 4" wide and 88.5" long with the center 44.75" stiffened. The tube type is 4" wide and 81" long, with a 27" long stiff interlining at its center. Either way, the fabric needs to be lightweight enough not to be bulky, but strong and pliable so it can be tied without tearing.
There is another kind of these undersashes called "magic belts." They're a modern version of the koshihimo and the datejime. They're felt covered rubber with velcro. Supposedly they're easier to put on, since there's no tying, but personally, I don't like them. They make you sweat *just* where they're worn. <icky icky icky>
Other Accessories
Eri shinThis is a stiff lining to make the nagajuban collar nice and crisp. It's inserted under the half-collar of the nagajuban. They're usually made of plastic these days, and they're slightly shorter than the half-collar. This is one of those things that aren't absolutely necessary, but they make a BIG difference in how both the nagajuban and kimono collars look.There are a variety of places to put padding to fill all those nooks and crannies, especially for us gals... The Japanese use thin towels to make the padding. It looks like a whole lotta trouble to me, but there is one that may actually be useful-- It's tied around the waist. This one will help give the obi a clean cylindrical shape, especially if you're a bit curvy. It's a towel 85cm long and 35cm wide (you may need to alter these dimensions). Fold it in thirds, and sew down the edges. Then fold down the corners at each end to form a point. Whipstitch these down and attach a tie at each end. The towel should be long enough to wrap around your waist, but not overlap. It's okay to have a gap of a couple of inches the ties should be long enough to bring around the front and tie like a koshihimo.Women's Obi Accessories
Obi itaThis is a flat board worn to keep the obi flat and wrinkle-free. There are 2 types: one has an elastic band attached to secure around the waist; the other doesn't have a belt and is used more with the fukuro obi-- it's inserted in the folded part of the obi which goes around the waist. I've discovered that these do come in different sizes (for unknown reasons), but it seems the most used one measures about 14.5" long and 5.25" wide. This one I think is better to buy, but if you want to go ahead and throw one together.... it's basically 2 pieces of fabric-covered cardboard sewn together.This is a small pillow-like thing that's tied around the top of the obi to hold the shape of the bow. There's 2 types of these: one is long and the other is round. The long one is used for the drum bow. The round one is used in other bows like the plump sparrow bow. This too I would suggest you buy.This is a lightweight scarf that's tied around the top of the obi and covers the obi makura. Its color is chosen to accent the kimono ensemble. Which one is a matter of personal style, really. They come in mostly pastel colors -- solid, gradations, some with slight patterns-- but I've seen them in brighter and darker colors too.I've seen 2 basic styles: one that's a plain strip of silk crepe, the other is dyed with shibori (this is a Japanese tie-dye technique). The plain style measures around 11.5" wide and 68" long. The shibori style causes the fabric to pucker, and thus "shrinking" it. These can be partial shibori or even full shibori. There's no reason why you can't make these yourself (use good fabric!), but do try to get the real thing. There's nothing like Japanese silk. And the colors are gorgeous!
This is a thick, stiff cord that's tied around the center of the obi. Like the obi age, this is also chosen by personal style. These come in all sorts of colors and weaves. They're usually made of rayon, but you can find them in silk. They measure about 60" long, including the tassels.There are several types. The one you'll most likely see is the round, thick, braided cord (about 1/4" thick). There's flat style, about 1/4" thick or slightly more. And then there's the round, "stuffed" type-- these are worn mostly for very formal occasions. Not sure on the width (I don't have any of these), but they look to be just under a 1/2" wide. They are a few variations, like the ends of the round braided cord split into several smaller, multicolored cords, but again, these are for formal kimono.
This is a brooch worn as a decoration on the obi jime. It's not a necessary item, but you may come across these in your kimono travels.Footwear
heh.. I've run into a few people who didn't have the slightest clue that there is a difference in the sandals worn with kimono. o.O So, here's the scoop:
GetaThese are those wooden sandals, traditionally with the "stilts". These days they've been modernized a bit so they look more like a shoe. (A little less dangerous too) They can be black lacquered or just the natural wood. They are usually worn just with yukata (cotton summer kimono) and WITHOUT tabi! However, they were designed for the rainy season to keep the kimono higher off the ground and less likely to get wet. So, they can be worn with full kimono, but just in rainy weather.Foremost! -- these are always worn with tabi. They range in style, from very casual to formal, like kimono. Basically (for women), the higher the heel, the more formal-- the formal zori look more like platforms! Men's are flat, no matter what. (lucky them, eh?) Oh, they should coordinate in color with the kimono.
© 2002-2003 Maureen Hallinan
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